Wipe them with a cloth or a cotton tip from time to time. In time, the wheels will gather some dust part from your environment and part from the factory coating. This is because the wheels have been tightened and left in the same position for a long time and the rubber has deformed a bit. It is normal and it will even out after a few days of printing. You should be able to move them by hand and the movement should feel smooth from one end to the other.įirst time you do this, you might feel two bumps about 1/3rd from the ends of each axis (for the X and Y as for Z you can’t really check this). The wheels need to be tight enough so that the part is not wobbly and only moving in the direction it’s supposed to. The Y axis holding the bed on the other hand has four wheels, two on each side and only the ones on the right side have eccentric nuts which you should try to tighten so that both apply the same pressure. For the X and Z axis there are 3 wheels hoding each part, with the 2 on one side being fixed and the 3rd on the other side being movable via the eccentric nut (so the one on the bottom for the extruder block and the inner ones for the Z axis holding the X gantry).
The eccentric nut allows one of the wheels to move closer or farther from the gantry so that the part that needs to move does not have any play and can freely slide. Because the gantry profile and the wheels are angled this is called a v-slot roller system. The wheels that walk the gantries are equiped with eccentric nuts. It’s a good practice to re-check the belts tension from time to time to make sure they did not get loose. To tighten the belt, unscrew the two screws, pull the idler assembly and re-tighten the screws. Each end of the belt has an idler that is fixed to a piece of metal that in turn is fixed to the gantry with two screws.
You should be able to pinch them almost like a guitar string. Belts and wheelsīelts need to be properly tight. Do not remove it as it’s good for guiding the filament and making sure your filament does not unravel from the spool, just unplug it. It’s been creating more issues for many people than it solving, so unless you’re running a print farm or doing very long prints you’re better of without it. You can safely leave the filament sensor unplugged. Do the same (unplug and plug back in) for the ribbon that goes up and down the left Z gantry. The other end of this cable did not seem to create issues for anyone so far, but it’s worth at least visually inspecting the connector. Remove the plastic cover of the extruder block (makes it easier) unplug the ribbon cable and then re-insert it. A missing screw could be hiding between other printer components and jam the mechanisms or create a short circuit.Ĭheck that all the ribbon cables are properly inserted. You have to check that at least all the visible screws on the base of the printer and on the Z and X gauntries are properly tightend and that none are missing. If unsure, you can always loosen the 2 screws holding the connector and pushing it more towards the base of the printer. If that part is not inserted properly it can create a lot of problems in the future as all the connections for the X motor and the extruder block pass though it. One thing to be careful with is the plug at the base of the left Z gantry that looks like an ISA connector. You just need to insert the part holding in Z and X axis into the base of the printer, fix it with the 4 screws and then plug the 4 cables for the Z motors, Z endstop and filament sensor. In case of the Sidewinder and his little brother the Genius this is pretty straight forward.
#Shut up and drive genius upgrade#
Some things might not apply to Artillery printers (especially the firmware upgrade part) but are good to be aware of.Ī very good article that covers most of the initial checks you need to perform is Artillery Sidewinder X1 calibration guide Assembling your 3D printer
#Shut up and drive genius how to#
How to calibrate 3D printer and first things you should print is an excelent video about the initial setup of your printer. Artillery has been very flexible and has never asked for this kind of proof but you never know. In case something might have happend during packing or shipping this will be your proof that it wasn’t your fault so it’s good that you have the unpacking process documented. Make sure you have good light and cover most of the angles. DON’T JUST YET !īefore and during unpacking make sure to take some pictures of the box and of it’s contents. You might be very tempted to quickly unpack and assemble your new printer and start printing.
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